Bobbles and Leaves Beret

Here's a beret that I've knitted for a friend for Christmas. It looks complicated but it's not really difficult and it's definately worth it as it looks so effective. I hope you like it. If the hat is not big enough you may have to add an extra pattern repeat to make it wider. Also, a lot of people knit hats with double pointed needles or circular needles but I just can't manage that so I knit everything on straight needles. Anyway, see what you think...

You will need:

• 1 x 100g ball of DK knitting yarn
• Pair of 3.75 mm knitting needles
• Pair of 4 or 4.5 mm knitting needles (depending on your preference)
• Pair of 3.25 mm knitting needles
• Pair of 3 mm knitting needles
• Sewing up needle

NOTE: This seems like a lot of knitting needles but you need to change to smaller and smaller needles as you decrease your stitches at the end.

Abbreviations:

• K = Knit
• P = Purl
• K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together
• Sl1 = Slip next stitch from left hand needle on to right hand needle without knitting it
• PSSO = Pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you have just knitted
• BOBBLE = Make a bobble. Here's how to make the bobble: (k1, p1, k1, p1, k1) into the next stitch, turn, p5, turn, slip the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th stitches in sequence over the 1st stitch. Then knit into the back of this remaining stitch.
• Yf = bring yarn forward.
• Sl2tog = Slip the next 2 stitches off the left hand needle and onto the right hand needle together purlwise without knitting them.
• P2sso = Pass the two slipped stitches together over the stitch you have just knitted.
• Tbl = Through back of loop(s).
• Yfrn = Bring the yarn to the front of your work, then wrap it over the top of your RH needle and bring it back to the front of your work.

Method:

Cast on 90 stitches with 3.75 mm needles.
Row 1: *K1, p1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 2: *K1, p1. Repeat from * to end.
Repeat last two rows 3 times more (or until work measures 1 inch) and then repeat row 1.
Next row: Make 65 stitches evenly across the row bringing the total number of stitches to 155.

Change to 4mm or 4.5mm needles.

You can now begin knitting the main patterned part of the beret.

Row1: (P1, k3, k2tog, k3, yfrn, p5, yfrn, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k3) 7 times, p1.
Row 2 (and every following alternate row): (K1, p8, k5, p8) 7 times, k1.
Row 3: (P1, k2, k2tog, k3, yf, k1, p2, BOBBLE, p2, k1, yf, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k2) 7 times, p1.
Row 5: (P1, k1, k2tog, k3, yf, k2, p1, BOBBLE, p1, BOBBLE, p1, k2, yf, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k1) 7 times, p1.
Row 7: (P1, k2tog, k3, yf, k3, p2, , BOBBLE, p2, k3, yf, k3, sl1, k1, psso) 7 times, p1.
Row 8: As 2nd row.

These 8 rows form the pattern. I knitted these 8 rows 4 times more (i.e, 5 pattern repeats) but you can knit more or less depending on the size you need. The hat I knitted is fairly small but it is best to use your own judgment according to who you're knitting for and what size head they have.

When you have reached the length you require, making sure you have completed a full pattern repeat (finishing with row 8 of the pattern) you can begin decreasing. Here's how to decrease:

Row 1: (P1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k3, yfrn, p5, yfrn, k3, sl1, k1, psso, k1, sl1, k1, psso) 7 times, p1. (You should have 141 stitches remaining).
Row 2: (K1, p7, k5, p7) 7 times, k1.
Row 3: (P1, [k2tog] twice, k2, yf, k1, p2, BOBBLE, p2, k1, yf, k2, [sl1, k1, psso] twice) 7 times, p1. (You should now have 127 stitches remaining).
Row 4: K1, p6, k5, p6) 7 times, k1.

Change to 3.75mm needles.
Row 5: (P1, k3tog, k1, yf, k2, p1, BOBBLE, p1, BOBBLE, p1, k2, yf, k1, sl2tog, k1, p2sso) 7 times, p1. (You should now have 113 stitches remaining).
Row 6: (K1, p5, k5, p5) 7 times, k1.
Row 7: (P1, k2tog, yf, k2tog, k1, p2, BOBBLE, p2, k1, sl1, k1, psso, yf, sl1, k1, psso) 7 times, p1. (You should have 99 stitches remaining).
Row 8: (K1, p4, k5, p4) 7 times, k1.

Change to 3.25mm needles.
Row 9: (P1, k3tog, k1, yfrn, p5, yfn, k1, sl2tog, k1, p2sso) 7 times, p1. (85 stitches).
Row 10: (K1, p3, k5, p3) 7 times, k1.
Row 11: (P1, yf, k3tog, p2, BOBBLE, p2, sl2tog, k1, p2sso, yf) 7 times, p1. (57 stitches).
Row 12: (K1 p1, k5, p1) 7 times, k1.
Row 13: (P1, k1, p1, p3tog, p1, k1) 7 times, p1. (43 stitches).
Row 14: (K1, p1, k2tog tbl, k1, p1) 7 times k1. (29 stitches).

Break the yarn leaving approx. 40cm of yarn to work with.

Thread your sewing up needle with the yarn and pass it though the stitches that you have remaining on your knitting needle. Draw the stitches together tightly and sew a few stitches to secure them in place. Turn the hat inside out and sew the seam together from top to bottom (finishing at the base of the brim). Take a round dinner plate and place your hat over the plate. Now steam the hat with a steam iron to block it and give it it's beret shape.

Lastly, enjoy your hat! :-)

Cable Tote

This tote bag is knitted using DK yarn on 3mm needles.

MEASUREMENTS:
W 35cm
H: 30cm (excluding handles)
D: 11cm

YOU WILL NEED:
Approx. 5 x 50g balls of DK knitting yarn.
2 pairs of 3mm knitting needles.
1 cable needle (small).
1 metre of heavyweight fabric (e.g. upholstery fabric).
2 short curtain poles (30cm x 1cm).
6 buttons.
1 sewing-up needle.

ABBREVIATIONS:
C4b - Cable 2 to the back (slip next 2 stitches from left-hand needle onto a cable needle and place at the back of your work. Knit 2 stitches fromthe left hand needle and then knit the two titches from the cable needle.
C4f - Cable 2 to the front (slip next 2 stitches from the left-hand needle onto a cable needle and place at the front of your work. Knit 2 stitches from the left-hand needle and then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
Foll. - Following
Alt. - Alternate
St.st. - Stocking stitch (knit a row, purl a row, repeat).

Cast on 108 stitches and knit 8 rows.

Commence pattern:
Row 1: K5, p3, k6, c4b, c4f, k6, p3, k46, p3, k6, c4b, c4f, k6, p3, k5.
Row 2: (and every foll. alt. row): K8, p20, k3, p46, k3, p20, k8.
Row 3: K5, p3, k4, c4b, k4, c4f, k4, p3, k46, p3, k4, c4b, k4, c4f, k4, p3, k5.
Row 5: K5, p3, k2, c4b, k8, c4f, k2, p3, k46, p3, k2, c4b, k8, c4f, k2, p3, k5.
Row 7: K5, p3, c4b, k12, c4f, p3, k46, p3, c4b, k12, c4f, p3, k5.
Row 8: Repeat row 2.
Repeat these 8 rows until work measures approximately 25cm ending with row 6 of the pattern.

You will now begin forming the pocket:

Next row: K5, p3, c4b, k12, c4f, p3, k3, cast off 40 stitches (this will form the opening of your pocket), k3, p3, c4b, k12, c4f, p3, k5.
Now put all of your work aside but do not break the yarn.

Take a new ball of yarn and cast on 40 stitches. Work in st.st. until this piece measures 10cm ending with a knit row. Break the yarn leaving approx. 30 cm attached to this piece of work. This forms the back of your pocket.

Now take the work that you put aside earlier and continue knitting the 8th row of the pattern until you reach the pocket opening. Attach the yarn from the back of the pocket to the yarn you are using for the front and purl along the 40 stitches. Knit the remaining 34 stitches as per row 8 of the pattern.

Continue knitting from row 1 of the pattern until your work measures approx. 30cm ending with row 8 of the pattern.

Cast off all stitches.

* BACK

Work as for FRONT but do not form a pocket.

* SIDES (both alike):

Cast on 31 stitches.
Row 1: P1, k29, p1.
Row 2 (and every foll. alt. row): Knit.
Row 3: K1, p1, k27, p1, k1.
Row 5: K2, p1, k25, p1, k2.
Row 7: K3, p1, k23, p1, k3.
Row 9: K4, p1, k21, p1, k4.
Row 11: K5, p1, k19, p1, k5.
Row 13: K6, p1, k17, p1, k6.
Row 15: K7, p1, k15, p1, k7.
Row 17: K8, p1, k13, p1, k8.
Row 19: K9, p1, k11, p1, k9.
Row 21: K10, p1, k9, p1, k10.
Row 23: K11, p1, k7, p1, k11.
Row 25: K12, p1, k5, p1, k12.
Row 27: K13, p1, k3, p1, k13.
Row 29: K14, p1, k1, p1, k14.
Row 31: K15, p1, k15.
Row 32: Knit.

Repeat rows 31 and 32 until work measures 30cm or until the length matches that of the front and back.

* BOTTOM

Cast on 100 stitches.
Work in st.st for 11cm, or until it matches the width of the side pieces. Please note, the bottom piece should be wider than the front and back pieces. Place a piece of stiff card measuring approx. 35cm x 11cm onto the wrong side of the knitting and fold back the extra knitting. Sew these flaps together creating two little pockets at each end. This ensures the card remains in place.

* HANDLES (both alike)

Cast on 13 stitches. Knit 7 rows.
Row 8: K4, p5, k4.
Row 9: Knit.
Repeat rows 8 and 9 until work measures 58cm.
Knit 6 rows.
Cast off.

Again, it is highly recommended that you also line the handles with the fabric to prevent stretching. I usually carry such a lot of things around with me that my handbag ends up weighing a tonne, so the extra strength in the handles is really needed!! Thank you to Lindsey for bringing this point to my attention.

MAKING UP
Sew the side pieces to the front and back pieces. Then sew in the bottom piece to form the bag shape.

NB. At this point it is highly recommended that you make a lining for the bag out of good quality heavyweight material such as upholstery fabric. This gives the bag extra strength and durability. Cut out 2 pieces slightly bigger than the front and back pieces, then two pieces that are slightly bigger than the side pieces and finally, 1 piece that is slightly bigger than the bottom piece. Sew your fabric pieces together to form an 'inside-out' bag and place it into your knitted bag. Carefully sew the fabric to the knitting along the opening.

Now you are going to attach the curtain poles to the front and back pieces of the handbag. Here's how to do it:

1. Take a long length of your knitting yarn and tie it securely to one end of either your front or back piece.
2. Using a sewing-up needle wrap the yarn around the curtain pole and thread it through the next stitch on your cast-off row. Repeat this, but thread the yarn though every 3rd stitch of the cast-off row.
3. Continue all the way along until you reach the other end. Draw the stitches along the curtain pole until they are evenly spaced. Continue wrapping and threading the yarn backwards and forwards until you can't see the pole (except for the ends). Tie off securely and repeat for the other side.

Sew the handles to the bag.

Knit and sew loops for the buttons on the pocket and the opening of the bag. These loops are knitted by casting on 4 sts and working in st.st for 15cm. Trim the bag with buttons of your choice.

I hope you enjoy making this bag. If you have any questions or suggestions please do not hesitate to contact me by Email. I would also love to see pictures of your bags made from this pattern.

NOTE: A lot of people have asked me about the yarn weight and the equivalent yarn weight available in America. Here is a web page that I have found useful:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight

Happy knitting!

Funky Cable Pencil Case with Corsage



This cute pencil case is easier to make than it looks. It is made by knitting a rectangular shape of fabric and folding it twice sewing the sides together to create the pouch, similar to the construction of the Little Knitted Pouch in my March 2009 blog entry. The pattern for the corsage will be given in a later blog entry.

So lets get down to the 'knitty' gritty...

To make this pouch you will need:

• 1 x 50g ball of DK yarn (colour of your choice)
• 1 pair of 3mm knitting needles
• 1 cable needle
  
• A piece of fabric for the lining approx. 25cm x 25cm
• 4 small wooden or plastic toggles or buttons
• Sewing thread (the same colour as your yarn)
• 1 sewing-up needle

Abbreviations:

• K = Knit
• P = Purl
• C2f = Cable 2 to the front. Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and leave at the front of your work. Knit the next stitch from the left-hand needle and then knit the stitch from the cable needle.
• C2b = Cable 2 to the front. Slip next stitch onto a cable needle and leave at the back of your work. Knit the next stitch from the left-hand needle and then knit the stitch from the cable needle.
• C4f = Cable 4 to the front. Slip next two stitches onto a cable needle and leave at the front of your work. Knit the next two stitches from the left-hand needle and then knit the two stitches from the cable needle.
• C4b = Cable 4 to the back. Slip next two stitches onto a cable needle and leave at the back of your work. Knit the next two stitches from the left-hand needle and then knit the two stitches from the cable needle.
• Alt. = Alternate

Here's how to make it:

Cast on 60 stitches and knit 8 rows.

Begin pattern:
1st row: K6, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k6, p2, k4, c2f, c2b, k4, p2, k6, p2, c4b, k2, k6.
2nd and every following alt. row: [P6, k2] 3 times, p12, [k2, p6] 3 times.
3rd row: K6, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k6, p2, k2, [c2f, c2b] twice, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k6.
5th row: K6, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k6, p2, [c2f, c2b] 3 times, p2, k6, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k6.
7th row: K6, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k6, p2, [c2b, c2f] 3 times, p2, k6, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k6.
9th row: K6, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, [c2b, c2f] twice, k2, p2, k6, p2, c4b, k2, p2, k6.
11th row: K6, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k6, p2, k4, c2b, c2f, k4, p2, k6, p2, k2, c4f, p2, k6.
12th row: [P6, k2] 3 times, p12, [k2, p6] 3 times.
Repeat these 12 rows 6 times more, or until work measures approx. 25cm.

Knit 8 rows and cast off.

Lining
Your piece of lining fabric should be slightly larger than your knitted fabric. The next thing you need to do is sew a 1cm hem all the way around your lining fabric and pin it to the knitted fabric so that there is a border of approximately 5mm of knitted fabric (see diagram below).

Now sew the edge of the lining to the piece of knitting using small stitches. When you have completed this, stretch the knitted fabric so that the two layers of fabric lie flat and then press with an iron.

The next step is to fold the fabric from the bottom edge up, creating the pouch for your pencil case, remembering to allow about 4cm for the opening flap. Sew the two side seams together with the same yarn you used for the knitting.

Fastenings
The last step is to make the fastenings. For the toggles I have used cocktails sticks. I cut them into 1cm lengths and then filed down the ends and also the middle, creating a little notch (see pic below).

Alternatively you can use buttons. Sew them onto the front of the pouch and then sew some loops onto the flap making sure that they are a good fit with your toggles or buttons.

The pencil case is now complete.

Easter Bunny

Easter is on its way, so why not have a go at making this cute little Easter bunny rabbit? It is easy to make and is a lovely personalised gift that you can give to friends and family*. Once you get the hang of constructing the body, head and arms you can alter the ears to make it into a teddy bear.

Here's how to make the Easter rabbit:


You will need:

• Yarn (any colour and thickness)
• 1 pair of knitting needles which are a suitable size for the yarn you have chosen
• Length of satin ribbon (approx. 30cm)
• Black embroidery thread
• Pink embroidery thread
• 1 embroidery needle
• 1 sewing-up needle for your yarn
• Polyester stuffing
• Small piece of felt fabric

Abbreviations:

• K = knit
• K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• St/sts = stitch/stitches
• Psso = pass slipped stitch over the stitch just knitted
  

Step 1:

Start by making the legs, body and head. Cast on 10 stitches and work in stocking stitch for 10 rows. Break the yarn and leave your work on the needle (i.e., don't cast-off). Repeat this process once more but do not break the yarn this time.






Now, knit across the 20 stitches you have on your needle so that the two pieces are joined together at the top.






Continue in stocking stitch for a further 17 rows finishing on a purl row.





Break the yarn approximately 20cm away from your work so that you have a nice long piece of yarn to sew up with. With your sewing-up needle, thread the yarn through the 20 stitches (slipping them off your knitting needle as you go) and draw them together (like a drawstring bag). Secure it by sewing a few stitches.

Step 2:

You now have the legs, body and head. The next step is to give your bunny a face. Cut a small circle out of your felt fabric and place it behind where the bunny's face is going to go. Use your black embroidery thread to make two eyes and the pink thread to make a nose.





Step 3:

Sew up the legs and then sew the two sides together making sure that you leave an opening of approximately 3cm so that you can stuff the bunny rabbit with the polyester stuffing. I usually use the end of a knitting needle to push the stuffing down the legs. When you have done this, sew the hole up.

(N.B. I usually sew things up so that they are inside-out to begin with. This means that the stitches look neater when the work is turned to right-way-out again.)





Now take a length of yarn and wrap it tightly around where the neck needs to go. This completes the head.


Step 4:

The next step is to make the arms. Cast on 8 stitches and work in stocking stitch for 9 rows ending with a purl row. Break your yarn and thread through the stitches as you did with the head and secure it with a few stitches. Repeat this process once more and then sew up the seams.





Stuff the arms with the polyester stuffing (using the end of a knitting needle to poke the stuffing into the arms) and sew them onto the body.


Step 5:

It is now time to make those all important bunny ears!

Cast on 7 sts.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: Slip 1 st knit-wise, purl to last stitch, K1.
Repeat these two rows twice more.
7th row: Slip 1 st, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1 (you should now have 5 sts).
8th row: As 2nd row.
9th row: Slip 1 st knit-wise, k2tog, psso, k1.
10th row: slip 1 st knit-wise, k2tog, psso.
Cast off.

Repeat this process once more. You should have two triangular-shaped pieces. At the bottom edge of the ears, fold in half and sew together. This should create an ear-shape.





Sew these ears to your bunny and finish by making a bow around the neck with the satin ribbon.

I hope you enjoy making this Easter bunny rabbit. Once you getthe hang of making the basic body shape you can alter the ears to make a teddy bear, and you can give it accessories. The possibilities are endless! The only restriction is your imagination.

Happy knitting!

Little Knitted Pouch

This attractive little knitted pouch is lined with gingham fabric and is great for storing small items. I use mine to hold my nail scissors and nail files but it could be used for jewellery or even your MP3 player and earphones.

To make this pouch you will need:

• 1 x 50g ball of DK yarn
• 1 pair of 3mm knitting needles
• A piece of fabric 32cm x 13cm
• 2 small wooden or plastic toggles
• Sewing thread (the same colour as your yarn)

Abbreviations:

• K = Knit
• P = Purl
• Yf = Yarn front
• P2tog = Purl 2 stitches together
• K3tog = Knit 3 stitches together
  

Here's how to make it:

Cast on 31 stitches and knit 8 rows.

Begin pattern:
1st row: K7, yf, k1, [p3, k1] 4 times, yf, K7.
2nd and every following alt. row: K5, Purl to last 5 sts, K5.
3rd row: K8, yf, k1, [p3, k1] 4 times, yf, k8.
5th row: K9, yf, k1, [p3, k1] 4 times, yf, k9.
7th row: K10, yf, k1, [p2tog, p1, k1] 4 times, yf, k10.
9th row: K11, yf, k1, [p2tog, k1] 4 times, yf, k11.
11th row: K12, yf, k1, [k3tog, k1] twice, yf, k12.
12th row: K5, P21, K5.

Repeat rows 1-12 11 times more or until work measures 30cm. Knit 8 rows and cast off.

Sew in all yarn ends.

Take your piece of lining fabric and make a 1cm hem all the way around. Lay your knitting face down and place the fabric on top (face up). Sew the fabric to the knitting with a running stitch all the way around the edge.

Now fold your work making the pouch and leave about 7cm for the flap. Sew the two edges together. Sew the two toggles to the front of the pouch and then, with your yarn, make two loops and sew them to the flap.

Finished!